Heceta Head Lighthouse
It was a dark and stormy night.
Actually, yes it was. The first night I spent at the Heceta Head Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast was quite stormy. But, that is what you just might get when you spend the night at the Oregon Coast in late March. Spring’s weather can be spectacularly perfect, or spectacularly atmospheric. While staying at this vintage bed and breakfast, we got a bit of both.
A Historic Lighthouse
Heceta Head Lighthouse is one of the most photographed locations on the Oregon coastline for good reason. Perched on a 1,000 foot high rocky outcrop called Heceta Head, (pronounced “heh-SEE-tuh”) the now-automated lighthouse rotates its lonely beam out in all directions warning ships of the dangerous shoreline. Built in 1894, the whitewashed lighthouse tower is 56 feet tall. The nearby lighthouse keeper’s house was once part of a compound of buildings including 3 houses, a barn, and several outbuildings necessary to keep the residents self-sufficient for the long breaks between restocking provisions. Many people don’t realize it is also run now as a bed and breakfast and as a wedding venue.
The Lighthouse Keeper’s House (Photo by Dawn Woolcott)
Vintage Style
We stayed two nights at the bed and breakfast and truly enjoyed our step back in time. The house interior has not changed much over the years and is kept in a style of the early 1900s. Inside you’ll find vintage furniture, easy-light real fireplaces you’re free to use, and guests are encouraged to feel free to use the piano and guitar kept on hand too. The rooms are decorated with an amazing collection of historic photographs of the lighthouse and the people who lived here, telling a fabulous story. Each bedroom is unique, some with an en-suite bathroom and some share a bathroom in the hall. The rooms are separated – 3 on one side of the house and 3 on the other side, so you’ll never be sharing with more than one other room. The rooms are traditionally furnished, have comfortable beds, and heavy weight bathrobes for your use. We stayed in the Queen Anne room, which has a big four poster bed, a heavy dark burgundy duvet, and a Victorian style chaise lounge. It isn’t a large room, but we enjoyed it. In keeping with the vintage feel of the bed and breakfast, you won’t find a television, video games, or an electric fireplace, but that is fine with me.
Afternoon wine and cheese hour
Lighthouse at Dusk
As I mentioned, day one of our stay was dark and stormy – perfectly atmospheric for an old keeper’s house. The wind and rain kept us indoors that first night, but inside there were games to play and books to read, and a fire to enjoy. Day two was blue skies and pleasant. I can imagine how nice it would be on a warm summer’s evening, sitting out on the front porch in the rocking chairs looking out over the crashing waves. We spent the day exploring Florence, making sure we were back in time to enjoy the afternoon wine and cheese hour. Later, we chose to walk up to the lighthouse at dusk, passing by the resident deer jumping over the fence and onto the lawn. It is not a difficult walk on the gravel road leading up to the lighthouse, although it is a slow incline. Once at the foot of the lighthouse, you can see out over the ocean, the beam piercing the clouds and reflecting off the trees. The wind in March will no doubt be your companion, but it is an experience you won’t want to miss.
The lighthouse at dusk (photo by Dawn Woolcott)
Gourmet Breakfast
The kitchen looks much like it did when the last keeper’s were living there – late 1930s. Guests are free to use the kitchen if they want to cook lunch or dinner for themselves. Coffee and tea are always available for guests to use. You won’t be cooking yourself breakfast, though. The gourmet breakfast is not to be missed. It is a highlight event with all guests sharing the two main tables. A seven-course gourmet breakfast is served to you on vintage china. A sample of some of the offerings we enjoyed included crostini with a smoked salmon cream cheese spread with capers and onions, a frittata with rosemary and sweet potato, a coulis of mango and rose, a honey-mead infused fruit salad, and raspberry bread. Each day offers something unique and special.
Breakfast first course
Getting There
This popular bed and breakfast is one you’ll want to book in advance and plan your Oregon coastline trip accordingly. It is about a 10 minute drive north of Florence where you can do shopping, go for dinner, catch a movie, or explore the waterfront. Getting to Heceta Head, there are a myriad of options crossing the coastal mountain range at Astoria, Cannon Beach, Tillamook, Lincoln City, Newport, and Waldport. We chose to drive down I-5 to Corvallis from the Portland area, and take Hwy 34 west towards Waldport. It is a scenic country drive taking you up into a winding forested area and down along lush farmland following a creek all the way to the coastline. Although this route only reached 1,230 ft elevation, I still wouldn’t want to drive the winding road on a foggy or icy day. I prefer a sunny, sunroof-open, music-playing type of drive. But with Oregon’s fickle March weather, you just never know what you’re going to get. If you are concerned about an easy passage over the coastal mountain range, you’re best bet is Hwy 22 out of Salem which lands you in Lincoln City and is the flattest route available.
Rolling hills on the drive towards the coast
If you love old-school, vintage style, are a history buff, or just love lighthouses, you’ll love staying at the Heceta Head Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast.
The Mariner’s Room with views overlooking the ocean
The Queen Anne Room
